Paris really comes into its own in autumn

The locals have returned to the city, the hordes of tourists have headed home, while the weather is still sunny. Our Parisian experts have picked five unmissable things to do this autumn to whet your appetite for your next trip to Paris.

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To drink: Le Mary Celeste

This Marais bar-cum-tapas joint sits squarely on the fence between drinking den and proper restaurant. Created by the team behind Candelaria, it’s a quirkily decorated place – exposed brickwork, vaulted wooden ceiling and modernist stained glass – that consistently packs in a hip crowd, for the simple reason that its drink and food are superb. Ask for a recommendation from Mary Celeste’s excellent selection of natural wines.

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To eat: Frenchie

An alley round the back of Les Halles might not sound like the most auspicious location for a great restaurant, but this hugely popular, easy-going bistro is a mould-breaker. Packed daily since it opened a few years ago, the food at this intimate little place is sensational (and well-priced) with a fixed price menu of French dishes that are classic albeit rather lighter than is strictly traditional.

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To stay: Hotel Saint-Marc

Renowned designers Dimore Studio spent two years restoring this historical building, which dates back to 1791 as the home of the Duc de Choiseul. They’ve injected it with serious dose of colourful 70s glamour and Art Deco stylings, mixing reclaimed objets d’art with custom-made furniture. There’s a beautiful courtyard where you can enjoy breakfast before heading out to explore the heart of Paris – the hotel faces Opéra Comique and is a stone’s throw from Opéra Garnier, while rue Vivienne with its boutiques and brasseries is just steps away.

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To shop: Centre Commercial

Among Paris’ hippest concept stores right now, streetwear emporium Centre Commercial is a hive of hard to find labels. The shop’s location near the Canal St. Martin also helps make it something of a destination for local (don’t-call-us) hipsters, many of them rocking the normcore-meets-trawlerman look the shop’s collection is currently promoting.

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To explore: Père Lachaise Cemetery

If they’re French and famous, you’ll find them buried here. Edith Piaf, Jim Morrison, Oscar Wilde, Colette, Balzac, Chopin and Modigliani are just some of the names on the roll call of graves in this beautiful Gothic cemetery.  Allow at least two hours to explore the 109 acre grounds, and finish off with a drink in one of the pretty bistros of nearby Belleville.

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